There are multitudes of Indian Restaurants in Perth these days…I am not sure whether it is due to the changing dietary whims of the Australian population, relaxed immigration policy or both – but I think its excellent (the wide choice I mean, not necessarily the quality of every establishment that pops up like a mushroom in the damp cardboard box that is Perth’s suburbia).
For this week’s exciting instalment, I have chosen to review three that we have visited recently…most Thursday nights see us installed (we hope) comfortably in an Indian restaurant sampling a wide range of dishes.
Balti (Perth
CBD)
I had occasion to visit
Balti on the corner of St Georges/Adelaide Terrace and Victoria Avenue a few weeks ago with a work function and was very pleasantly surprised at the time. The Mr K had the day off work one day, and was able to meet me for lunch so we decided we’d try it again to determine whether it was a one-off or worth a mention. We have since been back for dinner, just to make sure… The fit-out is modern Indian/Australian – by which I mean that it
isn’t your typical gaudy red/pink and gold with sparkles and tasselled elephants everywhere, (although it does feature pink as a prominent colour – I don't want you to be disappointed). It also features polished wooden floors, the leather chairs are comfortable and you do not have to shout across the table to be heard. The effect is clean and simple, and the noise level of an evening is tolerable. Wait-staff are prompt and efficient, if a wee bit robotic.
One of our faves here is the Chicken or Goat
Biryani ($17-18). The aroma is divine, rice texture is perfect, the meat is beautiful and spice has an excellent depth – just be careful of getting a cardamom pod stuck in your teeth. The Chicken in Saffron and Almond Sauce ($24) is very mild, but still very flavourful – the chicken is tender and in our experience
doesn’t involve you accidentally getting any gristly, fatty bits. The sauce is brilliant mopped up with a bit of garlic
naan ($4.5 ea). We have also tried the
Hyderbadi-Style Fish Korma ($25) which is tasty but not optimum if you are a spice lover, and the Goat Curry ($25) which is brilliant if you like a rich spicy curry with oodles of flavour (I advise Raita on the side). The meat is on the bone, but
this does not detract from the experience.
The wine list is not too shabby, we like the
Momo Sauvignon Blanc ($40) from Marlborough, NZ (where else!). They also feature a decent selection of local and imported beers.
9Marys (Perth
CBD)
I will admit from the outset I feel duped with this one. I visited the first time over 18 months ago, and was left with a hazy but pleasant memory of the food. We tried it again last night in our quest for the perfect Indian and were disappointed. Let me explain…
The fit out of 9
marys (sister to Chutney in
Subiaco) is quite similar to
Balti in the clean, modern chairs and tables, and bright but not over-powering Warhol-
esque prints of Queen Mary on the wall. The dining room is quite sophisticated looking, and holds some long high tables and chairs in addition to the usual level dining, which provides some interest. We had occasion to be served by a couple of different wait staff, one bright, bubbly and cheerful but still professional in manner, two others who would not open their mouths and seemed ready to pounce on you the second your plate was empty to whisk it away (by ‘second’ I mean ‘while you are still chewing the mouthful which rendered the plate empty’). It was like being stalked by a hungry vulture…
I hear you, Dear Reader…you are thinking, ‘Ooh if the plates were emptied, it must mean the food was good’. I am sorry to disappoint you, but the plates were emptied because the portions were so small as to make emptying them necessary for our survival until breakfast this morning. Lest I appear to slander, let me hasten to add that the dishes we had were cooked exceedingly well. The Tandoori Tasting plate ($36) was excellent, samples of Tandoori salmon, chicken, homemade
paneer and prawns with mint chutney. The size, although decent, was a bit small for the price, but no matter we thought – taste triumphs over value for money quibbles any day. We also ordered Butter Chicken ($26) (in our defence, this is only because the Butter Chicken we had once by accident at the Cinnamon Club and thereafter on purpose is truly excellent; more of a true
Murgh Makhani than some mild red slop out of a jar), this came with four small pieces of chicken, and an accompanying sauce. It was nicely cooked and the meat was tender, but flavour-wise left so much to be desired. I think if you added a bit of cream and tomato to the
Patak’s Butter Chicken sauce you could get a similar taste. The 9
mary’s website informs me that Indian dishes are rarely served ‘steaming hot’ by which I infer that they are referring to the amount of spice present, they also inform me that they ‘delicately blend’ their spices ‘ in meticulous proportions’ to create their dishes. They may be right, but I prefer the delicately blended, meticulous proportions of the Cinnamon Club for this one. Our final dish was the Goat
Biryani for One ($19). Again, we were disappointed – perfectly cooked grains of rice, goat on the bone, but lacking in flavour, and such a small serve.
Balti, for approximately the same price, represents far better value for money in addition to flavour superiority, and I am not even going to discuss Cinnamon Club’s offering at this point (please see rhapsody below).
The wine list is adequate, but hideously over-priced, in my opinion. The
Momo we had at
Balti for $40 is on the menu at 9
marys for $50, and they have no
BYO option (we witnessed them confiscate the bottle of the
unsuspecting couple who were seated next to us). My research indicates you can buy this wine for $20 or under when paying retail bottle shop prices. My sense of justice tells me the mark-up at 9
marys falls into the category of ‘we have the poor unsuspecting bastards captive – lets squeeze them for every cent’.
To top it all off - we were entertained during our dinner by the playful antics of two resident cockroaches under our table/end Kvetch.
Cinnamon Club (
Leederville)
I was recently accused by a close relative of not writing reviews reflective of my usual dining haunts. My justification involved a convoluted yet valid logic that a) people enjoy reading reviews of poor dinners I have had rather than those I really enjoyed and b) if I tell everyone where the good places are, I will not be able to just rock up for dinner there whenever I choose. It will become like Ha-Lu, where I now have to think about it a week or so in advance. That said, I see her point. And I am writing about Indian restaurants anyway – so it is fitting that we discuss the Cinnamon Club.
**Warning: I like this establishment very much, if you are easily bored, you may wish to tune out now**
A few months ago, on an ill-fated (or so we thought) rainy Wednesday night, we tried to get into Ha-Lu and were knocked back (see previous post). We were in Mt Hawthorn anyway, so was a drive of five minutes to
Leederville and the Cinnamon Club. We’d been ages before with a bunch of people and remembered it vaguely. It was busy, but a snap of the fingers from the manager and we were seated at the back of the restaurant (it was near the cutlery station, but really, it made no difference until the end of the night when the ambient noise died down a bit, and then the rhythmic crash became a little monotonous). It was conspicuously excellent. It still is.
The Cinnamon Club has a slightly funkier fit out than either
Balti or 9
marys – a little retro; with massive orange lamp shades and comfy booths if you are lucky enough to snag one. The service is friendly and efficient, but when the dining room is heaving with a mass of well-dressed individuals also clever enough to be there, you might need to occasionally avail yourself of an attention-seeking manoeuvre (by which I do not mean John Travolta style Saturday Night Fever dance moves tabletop [unless you really want to]– more of a smile/wave situation).
We have enjoyed everything we have ever ordered here – honestly. The tasting plates come in three varieties; Vegetarian ($20.5), Mixed ($26.5) and Tandoori ($28.5). The Tandoori is probably my favourite; I love the spiciness of the
Seekh Kebab, and the
Keema Naan is fantastic. We have settled into a bit of a routine unfortunately; we generally have a tasting plate and two dishes – three leaves you a) unable to walk, and b) with heaps of leftovers. The first dish is invariably the Chicken
Biryani (for two people, $34). This is absolutely brilliant, the chicken is tender and gristle-free, rice texture is perfect, its perfectly spiced, and comes with
raita and
poppadums. We have yet to make it to the bottom of the
Biryani bowl, we always end up with someone (not me) getting lunch the next day out of it. The second dish can vary; the Beef
Vindaloo ($20.5) is mind-bogglingly hot and I don’t recommend it unless you have a cast-iron stomach, the Butter Chicken ($20.5) is outstanding and has a bit of kick (see above review for detail), the
Malai Kofta (cheese and potato dumplings in cashew nut gravy, $15.5) is mild but very rich and a welcome nice change from the usual Indian fare.
We normally have a bottle (or two, depending on how bad the day was) of the
Alkoomi Sauvignon Blanc (WA, $38.5) here, the wine list is small but
liveable. However; they do offer
BYO at $6.50 per bottle, which means if you are organised, you can buy your
Momo for $20, and it will still cost you 188% less than it would at 9
marys.
So there we have it folks – a trilogy of reviews to mark my triumphant return to the
blogosphere (until the next time my day job ruins my social life).
What do you reckon? Had better?